Many years ago, I bought myself a maxi dress at Target in Melbourne. This was the most comfortable, easy to wear dress. It's a stretch fabric with an empire waist crossover top, and a shirred skirt. Over time, despite very careful handling, the neckline became a little stretched. I made a tuck in the front to fix it, but it's not perfect.
I like this dress so much, I decided to have a go at copying it. I started by tracing off a front and back bodice pattern. I didn't bother with the skirt as I just needed length and width measurements.
I then visited Chinatown and picked up some 150cm wide stretch fabric at the bargain price of $3 per metre. I bought three metres just to be safe, and ended up having enough to make Samantha a dressing gown as well.
What does it look like on? Very nice, I think!
To make sure the neckline didn't sag and stretch, I carefully sewed a small channel around the edge, and threaded 1/4" elastic through it. Overall I was quite happy with the fit of this make. I think the cross-over panels are a little bit long, so I adjusted my pattern before starting on my next make.
Now that I'd tested my pattern, I popped into Chinatown again and bought another stretch fabric. This one was $12 per metre. I only bought two metres this time and had plenty for my dress - it helps to be short!
I'm happier with the fit of this dress, but I still think I can take out a bit more fabric from the cross-over panel. I also messed up slightly with the join between the bodice and the skirt, and will add in an extra row of shirring above the join next time. By not having a row of shirring above the join, the seam has stretched and gone a bit wavy.
Overall I'm very happy with my two dresses and they get a lot of wear. I've already bought one more fabric for a fourth attempt. Hopefully I'll get it perfect this time.
I think your turquoise attempt is fab!
ReplyDeleteIt's great that you traced the bodice pattern! To ensure accuracy, consider using a lightweight tracing paper or even a transparent interfacing for a clearer outline, especially around curves like the neckline.
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Since you're working with stretch fabric, make sure to use a ballpoint or stretch needle on your sewing machine to avoid damaging the fabric while sewing.
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For a stretched neckline, instead of a tuck, you could try adding a narrow elastic band or even bias tape along the edge for better recovery and a polished finish.
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Shirring can be tricky to replicate! Make sure to use elastic thread in the bobbin and test on scraps of similar fabric to get the tension right before working on the actual piece.
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Once you've sewn the bodice and skirt together, check the fit before hemming. A fitting session will help you catch any adjustments needed for the empire seam or skirt length.
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The empire waist crossover design sounds beautiful! You might want to stabilize the seam with clear elastic to maintain its shape over time.
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